In Tuesday we headed across westwards to Anjou to check on progress with the 2017
harvest there. We were well aware that the 2017 harvest is virtually over.
Domaine de la Bergerie (Champ-sur-Layon)
Firstly we
dropped in the see the Guegniard family – Anne, Marie, Marie-Annick and
Yves (Domaine de la Bergerie) – and also caught up with Jean-Michel Monnier, their wine consultant who happened to be visiting at the same time.
They
have virtually finished the harvest – there just remain a couple of
tries in Chaume and Quarts de Chaume. Picking started pretty early on
4th September. Fortunately they have been less hit by frost in 2017 than
they were last year. However, in the Moulin de Beaupreau (Savennières),
which they share with the Ogereaus and Papins, was badly hit by frost
where they lost two thirds. The Ogereaus lost even more – virtually
100%. Luckily the Guiegniard family's La Croix Pichot, a parcel further
east in the Savennières appellation, was not hit by the frost. The Guegniards' La Croix Pichot is excellent and offers very good value at just under 14 euros from the estate.
Unusually
in 2017 the Cabernet here on schist was picked earlier than the
Cabernet on limestone in Saumur – normally it is the other way round.
On
4th October they did their first tri in the Quarts de Chaume, which
came in at 21˚ potential, while Chaume was at 20˚. This year for the
first time they have made an Anjou Sec from golden grapes in Chaume. The
aim is to eventually create a Anjou Villages 1er Cru from a range of
recognised sectors each with their own name. The intention is to give
the top dry whites from the Anjou Blanc appellation great cachet than
they currently have. Producers in Chaume and Quarts de Chaume are
apparently the furthest advanced. However, I suspect that it will be
some considerable time before this new designation will be accepted by
the INAO and come to fruition.
Anne, Jean-Michel, Marie, Yves and CRM
Jean-Michel Monnier takes a sample from their 'egg',
which is made from sandstone
Marie Guegniard
Domaine Ogereau, Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay:
Emmanuel Ogereau with their Vent de Spilite,
which they hope will be an eventual Anjou Blanc Cru
The Ogereaus have also nearly finished picking – just a last tri in the Quarts de Chaume – Les Martinières – and a parcel of Layon to finish.
They
started early – 1st September. By 30th September they had harvested
their Cabernet Sauvignon parcel on the Côte de la Houssaye, which is
remarkably early. Because of severe frost damage there will sadly be no
Savennières this year. What few grapes they did pick have been combined
with a small amount of dry wine harvested in their Quarts de Chaume
parcel making just a barrel.
The
first Quart de Chaume tri was on 25th September with grapes reaching a
potential of 19.5%. For the second tri the potential was 22%.
As
at the Domaine de la Bergerie we tasted some nascent 2017 Chenin Blanc
and again the juice was very clean with good length.
Harvest virtually over the Ogereaus can relax:
Vincent, Emmanuel and Catherine
