Jean-Pierre Chevallier (Château de Villeneuve)
Yannick Amirault drawing a barrel sample from his cave in the Bourgueil hillside
To reserve you place please contact Tom King on 020-7928 4554 or tom.king@rsj.uk.com
Showing posts with label Saumur Blanc. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Saumur Blanc. Show all posts
Tuesday, February 16, 2010
News flash: Yannick Amirault and Jean-Pierre Chevallier @ RSJ Tuesday 13th April
To reserve you place please contact Tom King on 020-7928 4554 or tom.king@rsj.uk.com
Saturday, October 10, 2009
Harvest reports: Château de Villeneuve, Domaine Ogereau and Domaine de Bablut
9th October 2009
The church at Souzay-Champigny and Château de Villeneuve
Florence Chevallier, Château de Villeneuve, Saumur-Champigny
The church at Souzay-Champigny and Château de VilleneuveFlorence Chevallier, Château de Villeneuve, Saumur-Champigny
"We are well advanced now and I expect that we will finish on Tuesday. We started on Wednesday 30th September with the white – the Chenin was magnificent – and the Cabernet Franc on Friday 1st October. The Ban des Vendanges was for Monday 5th October but as our degrees were already high we were able to start early. Both the Cabernet and Chenin are between 13%-13.5%.
As the weather forecast was uncertain at the beginning of this week we decided there was no point in waiting, so we harvested quickly with a big group of 35 pickers. Normally we do two tris (selective pickings) with the Chenin but the grapes were so good that we picked everything in one go. Had we done a tri then the degrees in the second picking would have gone too high."
As the weather forecast was uncertain at the beginning of this week we decided there was no point in waiting, so we harvested quickly with a big group of 35 pickers. Normally we do two tris (selective pickings) with the Chenin but the grapes were so good that we picked everything in one go. Had we done a tri then the degrees in the second picking would have gone too high."
•
Vincent Ogereau, Domaine Ogereau, Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay
Vincent and Catherine Ogereau
I was delighted to learn that Vincent has now made a full recovery from his operation in May.
Vincent: "Our Chenin is really good – golden yellow. Last week we did a tri for the Layon and the grapes came in a 20% potential. The juice has very pure fruit flavours. This week I have been worried by the tropical conditions we have had – warm and humid – bringing the danger of rot developing in the Cabernet Franc. We picked for the Anjou Rouge yesterday – 12.8% potential and 4.4g acidity. it should be quite soft. Then we'll start the Cabernet Franc for the Anjou Villages on Monday. I'm out every midday in the vines tasting the grapes and the ripeness is now starting to change very quickly with the acidity dropping. We need to get on picking now – it is too risky to wait.
We've picked some Cabernet Sauvignon to make rosé, which should be superb, but I'm not sure whether the Cabernet Sauvignon will get ripe enough, so that we can make red with it. At the moment the tannins are not ripe. The very dry weather we have had since the beginning of June has slowed down the ripeness. We have a small yield for the Cabernet this year."
Vincent and Catherine OgereauI was delighted to learn that Vincent has now made a full recovery from his operation in May.
Vincent: "Our Chenin is really good – golden yellow. Last week we did a tri for the Layon and the grapes came in a 20% potential. The juice has very pure fruit flavours. This week I have been worried by the tropical conditions we have had – warm and humid – bringing the danger of rot developing in the Cabernet Franc. We picked for the Anjou Rouge yesterday – 12.8% potential and 4.4g acidity. it should be quite soft. Then we'll start the Cabernet Franc for the Anjou Villages on Monday. I'm out every midday in the vines tasting the grapes and the ripeness is now starting to change very quickly with the acidity dropping. We need to get on picking now – it is too risky to wait.
We've picked some Cabernet Sauvignon to make rosé, which should be superb, but I'm not sure whether the Cabernet Sauvignon will get ripe enough, so that we can make red with it. At the moment the tannins are not ripe. The very dry weather we have had since the beginning of June has slowed down the ripeness. We have a small yield for the Cabernet this year."
•
Christophe Daviau
Christophe DaviauChristophe Daviau, Domaine de Bablut, Brissac-Quincé
"I think my Cabernet Sauvignon may well be riper than my Cabernet Franc. We've picked for the Anjou Rouge, which will have short time macerating on the skins so that it is soft and easy to drink. The Cabernet Franc on the limestone (AV Petra Alba) could potentially be very good, so I'm going to leave that for a while. For the Chenin we've finished the sec for Petit Prince and Ordovicien. The juice is 'super-beau' and very aromatic. We've also done a tri for the Coteaux de l'Aubance, which was at 19%-20% potential.
I'm a little bit disappointed by the yield but that's due to the dry weather, although the small amount of rain we've had in September and October has plumped the grapes up a bit. "
"I think my Cabernet Sauvignon may well be riper than my Cabernet Franc. We've picked for the Anjou Rouge, which will have short time macerating on the skins so that it is soft and easy to drink. The Cabernet Franc on the limestone (AV Petra Alba) could potentially be very good, so I'm going to leave that for a while. For the Chenin we've finished the sec for Petit Prince and Ordovicien. The juice is 'super-beau' and very aromatic. We've also done a tri for the Coteaux de l'Aubance, which was at 19%-20% potential.
I'm a little bit disappointed by the yield but that's due to the dry weather, although the small amount of rain we've had in September and October has plumped the grapes up a bit. "
Tuesday, March 31, 2009
Thomas Meunier presents the wines of Frédéric Mabileau
Thomas pointing out Le Puy-Notre-Dame the source of their Chenin for the Saumur Blanc In the unfortunate absence of Frédéric (see previous post), Thomas did a brilliant job yesterday evening presenting the wines to 50 people in the upstairs restaurant. It was good that all of the wines showed well.
2008 Osez RoséAperitif: 2008 Osez Rosé, Rosé de Loire
Guests were welcomed with a glass of 2008 Osez made from 100% Cabernet Franc. This is very pale coloured rosé – the colour only comes from pressing the grapes as there is no maceration. Osez is really light and fresh with attractive pear character will be a great summer drink, assuming we get a summer this year.
Serving
The first vintage of Frédéric’s Saumur Blanc was next – 100% Chenin Blanc from vines at Le-Puy-Notre-Dame, south of Saumur and not far from Montreuil-Bellay. The grapes were harvested on two different occasions. First the golden grapes at the end of September 2007 to give the wine freshness and then the rest some two weeks later with a proportion of grapes affected by noble rot to give weight and richness to the wine. The initial selection was vinified in stainless steel tanks (35%) with the second batch (65%) in 500 litre barrels. (In 2008 the proportion in wood was raised to 80%.) The 2007 Saumur Blanc was wonderfully expressive before bottling. Since bottling it has been decidedly closed but the richness is now coming out – well balanced with mineral acidity in the finish.
It was 60 years since the Mabileau last made a white wine. The last vintage that Fréderic’s grandfather, Armand, made was the 1947 from Chenin Blanc planted on the clay-limestone hillsides behind Saint-Nicolas. The creation of the Saint-Nicolas appellation in 1936 meant that the small production of white in the village stopped and the Chenin vines were replaced with Cabernet Franc.
Guests were welcomed with a glass of 2008 Osez made from 100% Cabernet Franc. This is very pale coloured rosé – the colour only comes from pressing the grapes as there is no maceration. Osez is really light and fresh with attractive pear character will be a great summer drink, assuming we get a summer this year.
ServingThe first vintage of Frédéric’s Saumur Blanc was next – 100% Chenin Blanc from vines at Le-Puy-Notre-Dame, south of Saumur and not far from Montreuil-Bellay. The grapes were harvested on two different occasions. First the golden grapes at the end of September 2007 to give the wine freshness and then the rest some two weeks later with a proportion of grapes affected by noble rot to give weight and richness to the wine. The initial selection was vinified in stainless steel tanks (35%) with the second batch (65%) in 500 litre barrels. (In 2008 the proportion in wood was raised to 80%.) The 2007 Saumur Blanc was wonderfully expressive before bottling. Since bottling it has been decidedly closed but the richness is now coming out – well balanced with mineral acidity in the finish.
It was 60 years since the Mabileau last made a white wine. The last vintage that Fréderic’s grandfather, Armand, made was the 1947 from Chenin Blanc planted on the clay-limestone hillsides behind Saint-Nicolas. The creation of the Saint-Nicolas appellation in 1936 meant that the small production of white in the village stopped and the Chenin vines were replaced with Cabernet Franc.
2007 Les Rouillères, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil2007 Les Rouillères, St Nicolas de Bourgueil £9.85
2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Anjou Rouge,
The 2007 Les Rouillères is all about soft, easy fruit with very little tannin – very much the ideal approach in 2007 when there wasn’t the ripeness to justify long maceration and a lot of extraction. Young this while it is young – no point in keeping it.
The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, AC Anjou comes from a parcel of vines just to the west of the Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil appellation. A little more structured than Les Rouillères this is still a wine to drink young to enjoy its youthful blackcurrant fruit.
The 2007 Les Rouillères is all about soft, easy fruit with very little tannin – very much the ideal approach in 2007 when there wasn’t the ripeness to justify long maceration and a lot of extraction. Young this while it is young – no point in keeping it.
The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, AC Anjou comes from a parcel of vines just to the west of the Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil appellation. A little more structured than Les Rouillères this is still a wine to drink young to enjoy its youthful blackcurrant fruit.
First course:
Pan seared cured salmon, mash & thyme jus
We had two more 2007s with the first course:
2007 Racines, Bourgueil £12.75
From vines planted on clay and gravel, this spends nine months in 600 litre barrels. This was the most structured of the four 2007s served but still with an accent on the fruit and ready to drink.
2007 Les Coutures, St Nicolas de Bourgueil £14.25
“This is the little brother or sister of Eclipse, Frédéric’s top wine,” explained Thomas. “We don’t make l’Eclipse every year only when the quality of vintage is good enough. When we don’t make L’Eclipse the wine normally destined for L’Eclipse goes into Les Coutures.” The 2007 has lovely stylish, sweet fruit.
Both wines went very well with the salmon again demonstrating that Loire reds are often a very good match for fish, particularly the more ‘meaty’ varieties. The quality of these 2007 reds is a tribute to Frédéric’s skill in a difficult vintage.
Tom King serving
L’EclipseMain course:
Roast ribeye
buttered carrots, mangetouts,
French beans, fondant potatoes
Red wine jus
L’Eclipse Roast ribeye
buttered carrots, mangetouts,
French beans, fondant potatoes
Red wine jus
We then moved onto a small vertical of l’Eclipse featuring 1999, 2000 and 2001 with the main course.
Frédéric made his first vintage of L’Eclipse in 1996. It comes from the oldest part of the vineyard where the vines at 50 years old. Originally it was aged in barriques but since 2001 Frédéric has reined back on the oak and instead now uses 600 litre barrels.
In terms of the three vintages 1999 and 2001 are very similar with some rain during harvest, while 2000 was dry until around the 18th-20th October when it started to rain and hardly stopped until the following March.
Of the three wines 2000 was easily the most full bodied and tannic. It would benefit from further aging. 1999 still has charm but is beginning fade, while the 2001 is between the two. Of the three vintages it is the most marked by oak – it spent 18 months in barrique and has a somewhat international tone about it. The 2001 has rather grainy tannins.
Although I would be happy to drink all three, my preference was for the 2000, especially with the beef, which successfully hid the tannins.
Dessert:
Pear and pistachio jalousie with chocolate sauce
Pear and pistachio jalousie with chocolate sauce
Tom in discussionSpecial thanks again to Thomas Meunier for a great presentation. We understand that Frédéric is considering releasing a 'Sans papiers' vin de table made from 'Chemin Blanc' to mark the occasion when he found himself barred from flying bacause his carte d'identité was out of date. Doubltess this will be a wine to drink 'sur place' as it will not travel!
Monday, January 19, 2009
Report on Saumur tasting: 19th January 2009
The Château de Saumur from the centre of the town The RSJ’s 2009 events programme started last night with a successful tasting and dinner partnered with nine wines from Saumur.
Régis Neau, Domaine de Nerleux Crémant de LoireGuests were welcomed with a glass of Régis Neau’s Domaine de Nerleux Crémant de Loire (£9.75 a bottle retail). This creamy and lemony sparkler is an RSJ favourite: we get through about 150 cases a year both in the restaurant and in private sales. Made from 70% Chenin Blanc and 30% Chardonnay, the Crémant de Loire appellation was introduced in 1975 and modelled on the same strict conditions that govern Champagne. Indeed in some respects the conditions for Crémant are stricter, especially in terms of amount of grapes that can be produced.
We then tasted three Saumur Blancs – all made from 100% Chenin Blanc:
2007 Régis Neau, Domaine de Nerleux £7.50
2007 Insolite Thierry Germain, Domaine des Roches Neuves £12.95
2005 Antoine Foucault Domaine du Collier £15.95
Partnered with panfried scallops, cod branade and beurre blanc.
The two 2007s were typical of the vintage with very clean, precise flavours and quite austere; something that makes them attractive to lovers of Loire wines but which others may find too lean. The lemony Régis Neau is probably best as an aperitif. Insolite showed the mineral character that Thierry Germain is now wants, which is a very different style from the much richer style of Insolite that he was making during the 1990s and in the early part of this decade.
2007 Insolite, Thierry Germain, Domaine des Roches NeuvesAs the son of Charly and Françoise Foucault, Antoine comes from a famous family. The wines (Saumur and Saumur-Champigny) of Charly and his brother, Nadi, are now much sought after on both sides of the Atlantic. Antoine set up on his own in 1999 with 5.5 hectares of vines on the hill of Bréze, which includes a plot called La Charpentie where the vines are around 100 years old. His wine-making cellar is in a large limestone cave under his parents’ home in Chacé.
Antoine’s 2005 divided opinion – for some it was the best white, others were not impressed citing an earthy flavour. This and Insolite were both a bit cold when they were served and showed better as they warmed up a little. Among the doubters some felt that it showed better with the first course rather than on its own. It is also a white that could benefit from being given time in a decanter or carafe. Equally you should be able to keep this for at least five years and probably longer.
Antoine’s 2005 divided opinion – for some it was the best white, others were not impressed citing an earthy flavour. This and Insolite were both a bit cold when they were served and showed better as they warmed up a little. Among the doubters some felt that it showed better with the first course rather than on its own. It is also a white that could benefit from being given time in a decanter or carafe. Equally you should be able to keep this for at least five years and probably longer.
2005 Antoine Foucault's Domaine du CollierNext we tasted two Saumur-Champignys as an interlude between the first and main course:
2006 Jean-Pierre Chevallier, Château de Villeneuve £9.95
2005 Philippe Vatan, Château de Hureau £10.95
Both wines were true to their respective vintages. With Jean-Pierre’s 2006 showing some of that refreshing edginess that is often typical of Loire reds. Although 2006 is a good vintage, its potential was undermined by wet weather at the end of the harvest that forced producers to pick in great haste to beat widespread outbreaks of rot. It is Jean-Pierre’s policy to only make his top reds in vintages when he is fully satisfied that the quality is good enough. In difficult or average vintages, such as 1998, 2004, 2006 and 2007 he doesn’t make the Vieilles Vignes or Grand Clos and instead everything goes into the ‘domaine’ wine, making them both remarkably good wines for the vintage and great value.
2005 Château de Hureau
2005 was a very good vintage and the Vatan domaine wine is wonderfully seductive with plenty of black fruits and is drinking very well now.
They were followed by three Saumur-Champignys served with the main course:
2005 Château de Hureau 2005 was a very good vintage and the Vatan domaine wine is wonderfully seductive with plenty of black fruits and is drinking very well now.
2005 Clos des Châtains Régis Neau, Domaine de Nerleux £11.95
2005 Vieilles Vignes Jean-Pierre Chevallier, Château de Villeneuve £12.50
2002 Marginale, Thierry Germain, Domaine des Roches Neuves £17.95
Roast guinea fowl breast and confit leg with braised shallots, grapes, new potatoes.
All three showed well with Thierry Germain’s 2002 Marginale the current star showing what a lovely vintage 2002 – not a heavyweight but beautifully and seamlessly balanced. Unfortunately the one of the bottles had a cork problem that became more evident as the wine warmed up and opened up.
2005 Vieilles Vignes Château de Villeneuve
2005 Vieilles Vignes Château de VilleneuveJean-Pierre Chevallier’s Vieilles Vignes is all delicious, silky fruit at the moment. With more bottle age it is likely to develop more complexity. Régis Neau’s Clos des Châtains comes from a parcel of old vines on the western side of the hillside of Saint-Cyr overlooking the Thouet Valley. Less silky and more edgy than the Villeneuve, this is always very consistent and good value.
2005 Les Châtains Régis Neau, Domaine de NerleuxDessert: Apricot tart, rum and raisin parfait, strawberry, kiwi and passion fruit salsa
Sunrise over the Loire@SaumurSaumur tasting this evening
Antoine Foucault: one of Saumur's young starsWith two changes the wines to be tasted this evening are as listed on Saturday's posting. The three whites will be:
2007 Régis Neau, Domaine de Nerleux
2004 Antoine Foucault Domaine du Collier
2007 Insolite Thierry Germain, Domaine des Roches Neuves
Followed by five Saumur-Champignys:
2006 Jean-Pierre Chevallier, Château de Villeneuve
2005 Philippe Vatan, Château de Hureau
2005 Clos des Chatains Régis Neau, Domaine de Nerleux
2005 Vieilles Vignes Jean-Pierre Chevallier, Château de Villeneuve
2002 Marginale, Thierry Germain, Domaine des Roches Neuves
Partnered with:
Fresh scallops with a cod branade
Duo of roast guinea fowl with a confit guinea fowl leg
George's pudding surprise
Saturday, January 17, 2009
Saumur tasting Monday: 4 places left
Four places left for the Saumur tasting and dinner on Monday (19th January) starting at 7.30. £45 per person.
Fresh scallops with a cod branade
Duo of roast guinea fowl with a confit guinea fowl leg
George's pudding surprise
To book your place please contact Nigel or Tom on 020-7928 4554.
Saumur consistently produces some of the best reds and whites of the Loire and we will be showcasing some of the best.
Although the list of wines has yet to be finalised, this is what we will be tasting with some minor tweaks still possible.
We will kick off with a welcoming glass of Régis Neau's Crémant de Loire, the RSJ's best selling sparkling wine.
Then we'll have three Saumur Blancs – three from these four:
2007 Régis Neau, Domaine de Nerleux
2004 Antoine Foucault Domaine du Collier
2007 Insolite Thierry Germain, Domaine des Roche Neuves
Les Cormiers, Jean-Pierre Chevallier, Château de Villeneuve
Followed by five Saumur-Champignys:
2006 Jean-Pierre Chevallier, Château de Villeneuve
2005 Philippe Vatan, Château de Hureau
2005 Clos des Châtains Régis Neau, Domaine de Nerleux
2005 Vieilles Vignes Jean-Pierre Chevallier, Château de Villeneuve
2002 Marginale, Thierry Germain, Domaine des Roche Neuves
Menu:Although the list of wines has yet to be finalised, this is what we will be tasting with some minor tweaks still possible.
We will kick off with a welcoming glass of Régis Neau's Crémant de Loire, the RSJ's best selling sparkling wine.
Then we'll have three Saumur Blancs – three from these four:
2007 Régis Neau, Domaine de Nerleux
2004 Antoine Foucault Domaine du Collier
2007 Insolite Thierry Germain, Domaine des Roche Neuves
Les Cormiers, Jean-Pierre Chevallier, Château de Villeneuve
Followed by five Saumur-Champignys:
2006 Jean-Pierre Chevallier, Château de Villeneuve
2005 Philippe Vatan, Château de Hureau
2005 Clos des Châtains Régis Neau, Domaine de Nerleux
2005 Vieilles Vignes Jean-Pierre Chevallier, Château de Villeneuve
2002 Marginale, Thierry Germain, Domaine des Roche Neuves
Fresh scallops with a cod branade
Duo of roast guinea fowl with a confit guinea fowl leg
George's pudding surprise
To book your place please contact Nigel or Tom on 020-7928 4554.
Tuesday, December 9, 2008
2009 tasting programme and dates to 30th March
We delighted that we are now able to give you the dates and subjects for the first three tastings of 2009.
The church of Souzay-Champigny and Château de Villeneuve
19th January red and white Saumur with dinner 7.30pm start £45 per person
Around Saumur is a real treasure-trove for both reds and whites – some many good produces and fine wines. It will be a tough choice for us deciding what to leave out. However to kick off the 2009 season, there will a glass of Régis Neau’s very popular Crémant de Loire (Domaine de Nerleux) and definitely at least one wine from Jean-Pierre Chevallier (Château de Villeneuve) and certainly one from Antoine Foucault, the very talented son of Charly and Françoise Foucault. Charly is the elder of the wonderful and celebrated Foucault brothers.
The vineyards above Chavignol with Sancerre town in distance
2nd March 2009 Sancerre red and white with dinner 7.30pm start £45 per person
Sancerre is not just white – a quarter of the production is red and there has been a real upsurge in interest and quality of the reds over the past 15 years. We’ll be tasting a range of some of the best of both colours to include wines from Henri Bourgeois, Roger Champault, Cotat and Alphonse Mellot.
Frédéric Mabileau
30th March Frédéric Mabileau, Saint-Nicolas-de- Bourgueil and Bourgueil, tasting with dinner, 7.30pm start £45 per person
We are delighted that Frédéric Mabileau, one of the best of the younger generation of wine producers in the region, will be presenting his wines, which in addition to his very popular reds the new Saumur Blanc will be shown. This will surely be a popular evening, so early booking is advised.
Bookings and any queries to Tom King on tom.king@rsj.uk.com or telephone 020-7928 4554.
The church of Souzay-Champigny and Château de Villeneuve19th January red and white Saumur with dinner 7.30pm start £45 per person
Around Saumur is a real treasure-trove for both reds and whites – some many good produces and fine wines. It will be a tough choice for us deciding what to leave out. However to kick off the 2009 season, there will a glass of Régis Neau’s very popular Crémant de Loire (Domaine de Nerleux) and definitely at least one wine from Jean-Pierre Chevallier (Château de Villeneuve) and certainly one from Antoine Foucault, the very talented son of Charly and Françoise Foucault. Charly is the elder of the wonderful and celebrated Foucault brothers.
The vineyards above Chavignol with Sancerre town in distance2nd March 2009 Sancerre red and white with dinner 7.30pm start £45 per person
Sancerre is not just white – a quarter of the production is red and there has been a real upsurge in interest and quality of the reds over the past 15 years. We’ll be tasting a range of some of the best of both colours to include wines from Henri Bourgeois, Roger Champault, Cotat and Alphonse Mellot.
Frédéric Mabileau30th March Frédéric Mabileau, Saint-Nicolas-de- Bourgueil and Bourgueil, tasting with dinner, 7.30pm start £45 per person
We are delighted that Frédéric Mabileau, one of the best of the younger generation of wine producers in the region, will be presenting his wines, which in addition to his very popular reds the new Saumur Blanc will be shown. This will surely be a popular evening, so early booking is advised.
Bookings and any queries to Tom King on tom.king@rsj.uk.com
Friday, October 10, 2008
Harvest news from Frédéric Mabileau
Freddy is now picking his Cabernet Franc. “We are harvesting in the sunshine,” said Natalie Mabileau. “The quality is very good with the grapes between 11.5% and 13% potential depending on the parcel. But unfortunately the yield is tiny – varying between 10 hl/ha and 30 hl/ha. Tomorrow we will be in Le Puy Notre Dame to make our first tri (selection) of the Chenin Blanc for our white Saumur.
Saturday, October 4, 2008
Harvest news from Saumur
(3 October 2008)
Looking towards the church of Souzay-Champigny
and Château de Villeneuve (right)
Jean-Pierre Chevallier
Jean Pierre Chevallier, Château de Villeneuve
Caught up with Jean-Pierre in his Les Cormiers vineyard (Chenin Blanc), close to the famous Clos des Murs. He and his pickers were busy doing a selective picking – choosing those bunches affected by noble rot and therefore too rich and powerful in alcohol to go straight into Les Cormiers, his grand vin blanc. They started yesterday afternoon and Jean-Pierre was very surprised that the juice that came out of the press was 18.4% potential. “I can’t make dry wine with that!” he said. “I’ll ferment it separately and may be I’ll make some Coteaux de Saumur again this year – not what I had intended to do.” Château de Villeneuve has made Coteaux de Saumur only twice before – in 1921 and 2003. JP is well satisfied with the quality of the fruit both Chenin and Cabernet.
What they are picking: botrytis affected grapes
What's being left to pick next week:
perfect bunches for a great dry white
“I got a special derogation from the INAO to start picking my Cabernet today as one parcel was already at 13.7% on Monday and the rest is between 12.8%-13.2% but with an acidity of 6.7. I’ll start picking the Cabernet next week.”
Thierry Germain (Domaine des Roches Neuves)
We saw Thierry on Thursday afternoon. He was hoping to start on Friday (3rd) if the weather holds. His Chenin is between 12.5%-13% potential and between 6.5 and 7.5 acidity. “The acidity levels are dropping,” said Thierry. He intends to start on his Cabernet Franc next Wednesday. “They were at 12.2% potential last Friday with the acidity at 5.5.”
Cabernet Franc in one of Thierry's vineyards (2.10.2008)
“With the high acidity levels and their thick skins the 2008 reds will be complicated to vinify well,” he says. “It will be very important not to extract a lot of tannin. With the white I will do a less severe débourbage (juice settling) than usual.”
We went with Thierry on a quick drive to look at his vines. This took in a visit to his small parcel (15 ares – 0.15 ha) francs pieds vines (ungrafted vines) planted using the old system of échalas (cultivation around a pole). Thierry’s 15 ares are planted with Cabernet Franc to the equivalent density of 10,000 vines per hectare – the average density in the region is 5500 per hectare. He is very excited as he will get the first crop off them this year as they were planted in 2004/05. “I love their purity of flavour – their freshness,” says Thierry. “The flavour is totally different to grapes from grafted vines.” This fruit will be vinified separately in 400 litre open topped barrels. Thierry hopes to get a few vintages from them before the vines are destroyed by phylloxera. The soil is sandy clay over limestone, so with luck it may take a little while for the phylloxera to get at them. “I’ve long had a dream to cultivate vines using this old system (échalas) that you’ll find in parts of Burgundy.” It can also be found in the Mosel.
Thierry in his ungrafted vineyard of Cabernet Franc
Looking towards the church of Souzay-Champigny and Château de Villeneuve (right)
Jean-Pierre ChevallierJean Pierre Chevallier, Château de Villeneuve
Caught up with Jean-Pierre in his Les Cormiers vineyard (Chenin Blanc), close to the famous Clos des Murs. He and his pickers were busy doing a selective picking – choosing those bunches affected by noble rot and therefore too rich and powerful in alcohol to go straight into Les Cormiers, his grand vin blanc. They started yesterday afternoon and Jean-Pierre was very surprised that the juice that came out of the press was 18.4% potential. “I can’t make dry wine with that!” he said. “I’ll ferment it separately and may be I’ll make some Coteaux de Saumur again this year – not what I had intended to do.” Château de Villeneuve has made Coteaux de Saumur only twice before – in 1921 and 2003. JP is well satisfied with the quality of the fruit both Chenin and Cabernet.
What they are picking: botrytis affected grapes
What's being left to pick next week: perfect bunches for a great dry white
“I got a special derogation from the INAO to start picking my Cabernet today as one parcel was already at 13.7% on Monday and the rest is between 12.8%-13.2% but with an acidity of 6.7. I’ll start picking the Cabernet next week.”
Thierry Germain (Domaine des Roches Neuves)
We saw Thierry on Thursday afternoon. He was hoping to start on Friday (3rd) if the weather holds. His Chenin is between 12.5%-13% potential and between 6.5 and 7.5 acidity. “The acidity levels are dropping,” said Thierry. He intends to start on his Cabernet Franc next Wednesday. “They were at 12.2% potential last Friday with the acidity at 5.5.”
Cabernet Franc in one of Thierry's vineyards (2.10.2008)“With the high acidity levels and their thick skins the 2008 reds will be complicated to vinify well,” he says. “It will be very important not to extract a lot of tannin. With the white I will do a less severe débourbage (juice settling) than usual.”
We went with Thierry on a quick drive to look at his vines. This took in a visit to his small parcel (15 ares – 0.15 ha) francs pieds vines (ungrafted vines) planted using the old system of échalas (cultivation around a pole). Thierry’s 15 ares are planted with Cabernet Franc to the equivalent density of 10,000 vines per hectare – the average density in the region is 5500 per hectare. He is very excited as he will get the first crop off them this year as they were planted in 2004/05. “I love their purity of flavour – their freshness,” says Thierry. “The flavour is totally different to grapes from grafted vines.” This fruit will be vinified separately in 400 litre open topped barrels. Thierry hopes to get a few vintages from them before the vines are destroyed by phylloxera. The soil is sandy clay over limestone, so with luck it may take a little while for the phylloxera to get at them. “I’ve long had a dream to cultivate vines using this old system (échalas) that you’ll find in parts of Burgundy.” It can also be found in the Mosel.
Thierry in his ungrafted vineyard of Cabernet FrancThierry also confirmed that there will be no Marginale 2007 as the vintage wasn't good enough. Instead it will be blended into the other cuvées. Jean-Pierre Chevallier has come to a similar decision for his 2007 reds – there will be no Grand Clos or Vieilles Vignes 2007. As in 2004 and 1998 all will go into the straight Saumur-Champigny, which will be bottled in early 2009. On previous experience this should mean that the Villeneuve 2007 will be extremely good for the year and remarable value.
Antoine Foucault: getting ready for the vintage
We dropped in on Antoine at Chacé who, assisted by his cousin, was busy making final preparations for the start of the harvest of his Chenin Blanc expected early next week depending on the acidity levels. When last checked his young Chenin vines were at 12.2% and the Centenaires at 13.5% with acidity levels around 7. Antoine said that the Foucault brothers, Antoine’s father Charly and Nadi, will probably start in the middle of next week – again dependent on what happens to the acidity.
Antoine with his 2006 Domaine du Collier Saumur Blanc
We quickly tasted the Domaine du Collier 2006 Saumur Blanc, which has just been bottled – absolutely delicious (see below) as well as the 2005 La Charpentrie Saumur Blanc from 100 year old vines. This is richer reflecting both the vintage and the age of the vines but still with fine minerality.
Antoine Foucault’s stock control problem
So delicious is Antoine’s 2006 Domaine Saumur Blanc that his father, Charly, can’t keep his hands off this recently bottled wine, which has some floral aromas, a hint of butter and toast but overall a wonderful mineral purity and great length of flavour. Although the disappearing stock may be hitting Antoine’s bottom line, it’s also a huge compliment as Charly and his brother, Nadi’s, wines are the benchmark for the region.
Antoine's dog gets ready for the vintage – snoozing in the little trailer that will take the debris that's left over after being through the press
We currently have both the 2004 Saumur Blanc Domaine du Collier and the 2004 Saumur Blanc La Charpentrie from Antoine Foucault on the restaurant list.
Régis Neau, Domaine de Nerleux
Antoine Foucault: getting ready for the vintage
We dropped in on Antoine at Chacé who, assisted by his cousin, was busy making final preparations for the start of the harvest of his Chenin Blanc expected early next week depending on the acidity levels. When last checked his young Chenin vines were at 12.2% and the Centenaires at 13.5% with acidity levels around 7. Antoine said that the Foucault brothers, Antoine’s father Charly and Nadi, will probably start in the middle of next week – again dependent on what happens to the acidity.
Antoine with his 2006 Domaine du Collier Saumur BlancWe quickly tasted the Domaine du Collier 2006 Saumur Blanc, which has just been bottled – absolutely delicious (see below) as well as the 2005 La Charpentrie Saumur Blanc from 100 year old vines. This is richer reflecting both the vintage and the age of the vines but still with fine minerality.
Antoine Foucault’s stock control problem
So delicious is Antoine’s 2006 Domaine Saumur Blanc that his father, Charly, can’t keep his hands off this recently bottled wine, which has some floral aromas, a hint of butter and toast but overall a wonderful mineral purity and great length of flavour. Although the disappearing stock may be hitting Antoine’s bottom line, it’s also a huge compliment as Charly and his brother, Nadi’s, wines are the benchmark for the region.
Antoine's dog gets ready for the vintage – snoozing in the little trailer that will take the debris that's left over after being through the pressWe currently have both the 2004 Saumur Blanc Domaine du Collier and the 2004 Saumur Blanc La Charpentrie from Antoine Foucault on the restaurant list.
Régis Neau, Domaine de Nerleux
Our last visit on Friday (3rd) was to see Régis. From having been a glorious morning the sky was now covered and threatening rain. There’s good news for RSJ customers, who enjoy Régis’ ever-popular Crémant de Loire.
Régis in his vines destined for Coteaux de Saumur: early November 2007
“I’ve finished picking grapes for the Crémant,” said Régis “We started on the Chardonnay on 19th September, the Chenin on 22nd and the Cabernet on 23rd/24th. We finished on 29th/30th with another parcel of Chenin. We now have 7 hectares, which we use for sparkling wine. As everywhere the yields are down this year. Normally we have 70 hl/ha – this year it’s 57 hl/ha overall. The Cabernet at 50 hl/ha and the Chenin at 65 hl/ha. We are now waiting for the Chenin and cabernet for the still wines. For the Cabernet the acidity in the best parcels is now down below 6. At Monsoreau I have some Cabernet that is between 11.2 and 12.2 with acidities between 5.2 and 6.5. The Chenin is a 12% with 7.5 acidity. It’s been very dry – we need a little rain now but not too much!”
Will be reporting from Sancerre, Pouilly etc. early next week.
Régis in his vines destined for Coteaux de Saumur: early November 2007“I’ve finished picking grapes for the Crémant,” said Régis “We started on the Chardonnay on 19th September, the Chenin on 22nd and the Cabernet on 23rd/24th. We finished on 29th/30th with another parcel of Chenin. We now have 7 hectares, which we use for sparkling wine. As everywhere the yields are down this year. Normally we have 70 hl/ha – this year it’s 57 hl/ha overall. The Cabernet at 50 hl/ha and the Chenin at 65 hl/ha. We are now waiting for the Chenin and cabernet for the still wines. For the Cabernet the acidity in the best parcels is now down below 6. At Monsoreau I have some Cabernet that is between 11.2 and 12.2 with acidities between 5.2 and 6.5. The Chenin is a 12% with 7.5 acidity. It’s been very dry – we need a little rain now but not too much!”
Will be reporting from Sancerre, Pouilly etc. early next week.
Saturday, September 27, 2008
More news of the 2008 harvest
Harvesting Sauvignon BlancWent round the vineyards with Christophe on Thursday. They were harvesting the Sauvignon Blanc for the vin de pays de la Loire. Despite the poor summer the Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon are looking promising, especially with this current spell of generally fine weather. “It will be another 10-14 days before we can start harvesting them,” said Christophe. “At the moment they have about 10˚ potential alcohol and the acidity levels are high.” Next Monday they will have the Grolleau Noir, a local variety, to make Topette, Christophe’s easy drinking, screwcapped red, which is sold in the French market.
Catherine Roussel and Didier Barouillet, Clos Roche Blanche, Touraine
Picking started on Monday 22nd. When I saw them yesterday they had finished the Sauvignon Blanc – unfortunately a tiny harvest this year. Friday morning they started on the Gamay. “The Gamay is really good – very healthy and almost no rot,” said Catherine. When Didier sorted through the grapes he only found five bunches that were rotten.” On Monday morning they will be again be picking Gamay – I hope to get some shots of them harvesting.
Frédéric Mabileau, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil and Saumur Blanc
Fréderic and Thomas are both very optimistic. “For the Chenin at Le Puy Notre Dame we’ll do the first picking on 6th and 7th October and then the second through the vines 10-14 days later. We’ll start picking the Cabernet Franc on Wednesday 8th October."
Jean-Marie Bourgeois, Henri Bourgeois, Sancerre
“The weather is great at the moment. We will be starting in earnest on Wednesday/Thursday of next week.”
Look out for further updates soon.
Saturday, September 20, 2008
Frédéric Mabileau’s new Saumur Blanc is now in bottle
End of October 2007: Frédéric with his very young Saumur Blanc – still fermenting.
(This item was previously on www.rsj.uk.com)
The first white wine to be made by the Mabileau family for exactly sixty years was bottled by Frédéric on 5th June 2008. Until 1947 the Mabileau’s made white wine from Chenin Blanc planted in the Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil vineyards. This was the year that Frédéric’s grandfather, Armand, took over from his father. Frédéric’s new baby is a Saumur Blanc 2007 from Chenin planted at Le Puy-Notre-Dame.
Although we haven’t yet tried the finished article, we have tasted the new wine on several occasions and been so impressed that we have already placed an order. Our modest allocation will arrive in the early autumn.
For further details visit: www.fredericmabileau.com/news.htm. Don’t miss the two new videos – one of father and son, the other grandson and grandfather. Unfortunately the video from September 2007 of Frédéric scoffing many of the white grapes is no longer on the site.
The first white wine to be made by the Mabileau family for exactly sixty years was bottled by Frédéric on 5th June 2008. Until 1947 the Mabileau’s made white wine from Chenin Blanc planted in the Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil vineyards. This was the year that Frédéric’s grandfather, Armand, took over from his father. Frédéric’s new baby is a Saumur Blanc 2007 from Chenin planted at Le Puy-Notre-Dame.
Although we haven’t yet tried the finished article, we have tasted the new wine on several occasions and been so impressed that we have already placed an order. Our modest allocation will arrive in the early autumn.
For further details visit: www.fredericmabileau.com/news.htm. Don’t miss the two new videos – one of father and son, the other grandson and grandfather. Unfortunately the video from September 2007 of Frédéric scoffing many of the white grapes is no longer on the site.
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