Peter Lloyd
Last Monday (24th July) Peter Lloyd and Tom King held the first food and wine matching evening at Sticky Mango@RSJ. Winewise we held true to our long commitment to the Loire, while Peter's food was typically brilliant. (Jim reports*)
It proved to be a fascinating experiment seeing how well the food and wine would knock along together.
Irish Rock
Oyster
Coconut
& Lime Granita, Chilli Tapioca Pearls
2015
Muscadet de Sevre et Maine sur lie
Le Verger Pierre
Luneau-Papin
Although Muscadet is famous for being an ideal match with seafood this was the evening's least successful match. The oyster was fat, delicious with an attractive sweetness, while this particular Muscadet had good freshness but without the weight and concentration to stand up to the oyster. Another richer Muscadet from the Luneau-Papin stable or an older Muscadet with more evolved flavours would, I suspect, have been a more successful match.
Moving away from the Loire and France it would be worth trying an Alvarinho, Vinho Verde from Anselmo Mendes.
Soft shelled crab
with the fried steam buns
Tempura Soft Shell Crab
Singapore Chilli Sauce, Fried Steam Buns 2016 Pouilly Fumé, Domaine Treuillet
Sébastien Treuillet
In contrast to the Muscadet, the 2016 Pouilly Fumé from Sébastien Treuillet was a brilliant match with the delicious soft shelled crab. The Pouilly Fumé had enough weight to match the tastily spicy flavours of the crab.
JG's Black Pepper Shrimp
Sun-dried Pineapple, Jicama & Pea Shoots
2016 Saumur Blanc, Domaine de Nerleux
Amélie Neau
2015 Saumur-Champigny
Domaine de Nerleux, Amélie Neau
It was interesting to find that the red – Saumur-Champigny – proved to be a better match with the spicy shrimp than the Saumur Blanc, which was rather overwhelmed. However, the Saumur Blanc proved to be good with the next dish – the chicken.
Mamak BBQ Corn Fed Chicken
Charred Long Bean, Pickled Red Onion Salad
with Jasmine Rice2015 Chinon Domaine de la Noblaie
Jérôme Billard
I thought the 2015 Chinon was too tannic to be a good match with the chicken. Perhaps another year or two in bottle would be beneficial for this match. Perhaps a 2014 or 2012 or perhaps an earlier vintage might be a better match.
The Sticky Mango:
Sweet Sticky Rice, Coconunt & Vanilla,
Whipped Condensed Milk, Mango
– Peter's signature dessert
Pandan Macaron
Kaya Jam, Caramel & Soy Sauce Ice Cream2014 Coteaux du Layon Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay
Vincent and Emmanuel Ogereau
I was surprised that the Coteaux du Layon stood up as well as it did to The Sticky Mango, which is nowhere near as sweet as the description suggests. The Layon was, however, completely overpowered by the very sweet Macaron, which perhaps needs something like a Muscat de Rivesaltes or a Muscat from Spain or Portugal.
Sticky Mango
33 Coin Street
London SE1 9NR
Tel: 020-7803 9733
E Mail: info@stickymango.co.uk
Latest menu here.
* I have been a consultant to the RSJ Restaurant (now Sticky Mango@RSJ) for over 30 years. However, on this occasion I paid in full (£49) to be part of this food and wine matching evening.
