2017 Loire in Anjou – Anne, Marie & Yves Guegniard, Emmanuel, Catherine and Vincent Ogereau

In Tuesday we headed across westwards to Anjou to check on progress with the 2017 harvest there. We were well aware that the 2017 harvest is virtually over. 

Domaine de la Bergerie (Champ-sur-Layon)
Firstly we dropped in the see the Guegniard family – Anne, Marie, Marie-Annick and Yves (Domaine de la Bergerie) – and also caught up with Jean-Michel Monnier, their wine consultant who happened to be visiting at the same time.

They have virtually finished the harvest – there just remain a couple of tries in Chaume and Quarts de Chaume. Picking started pretty early on 4th September. Fortunately they have been less hit by frost in 2017 than they were last year. However, in the Moulin de Beaupreau (Savennières), which they share with the Ogereaus and Papins, was badly hit by frost where they lost two thirds. The Ogereaus lost even more – virtually 100%. Luckily the Guiegniard family's La Croix Pichot, a parcel further east in the Savennières appellation, was not hit by the frost. The Guegniards' La Croix Pichot is excellent and offers very good value at just under 14 euros from the estate. 

Unusually in 2017 the Cabernet here on schist was picked earlier than the Cabernet on limestone in Saumur – normally it is the other way round. 

On 4th October they did their first tri in the Quarts de Chaume, which came in at 21˚ potential, while Chaume was at 20˚. This year for the first time they have made an Anjou Sec from golden grapes in Chaume. The aim is to eventually create a Anjou Villages 1er Cru from a range of recognised sectors each with their own name. The intention is to give the top dry whites from the Anjou Blanc appellation great cachet than they currently have. Producers in Chaume and Quarts de Chaume are apparently the furthest advanced. However, I suspect that it will be some considerable time before this new designation will be accepted by the INAO and come to fruition.  

       Anne, Jean-Michel, Marie, Yves and CRM 

 Jean-Michel Monnier takes a sample from their 'egg', 

which is made from sandstone 

 Marie Guegniard

Domaine Ogereau, Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay:

Emmanuel Ogereau with their Vent de Spilite, 

which they hope will be an eventual Anjou Blanc Cru 

The Ogereaus have also nearly finished picking – just a last tri in the Quarts de Chaume – Les Martinières – and a parcel of Layon to finish. 

They started early – 1st September. By 30th September they had harvested their Cabernet Sauvignon parcel on the Côte de la Houssaye, which is remarkably early. Because of severe frost damage there will sadly be no Savennières this year. What few grapes they did pick have been combined with a small amount of dry wine harvested in their Quarts de Chaume parcel making just a barrel.

The first Quart de Chaume tri was on 25th September with grapes reaching a potential of 19.5%. For the second tri the potential was 22%.    

As at the Domaine de la Bergerie we tasted some nascent 2017 Chenin Blanc and again the juice was very clean with good length.  

 

Harvest virtually over the Ogereaus can relax:

Vincent, Emmanuel and Catherine 

Sumertime rosé! Ogereau's 2009 Rosé de Loire + big trio tasting

Enjoying a glass of 2009 Rosé de Loire, Domaine Ogereau

Now that we seem to be enjoying a prolonged spell of warm, sunny weather what could be better than a nicely chilled bottle of rosé. Our consignment of Vincent Ogereau's deliciously easy drinking rosé has arrived just in time for the sun. Made from 60% Grolleau and 40% Gamay this has attractive, ripe red fruit flavours. Available retail* at a special summer price of £7.50 a bottle. In the restaurant it's £18.95 a bottle and by the glass for £4.25 (125mls).

* To order please contact Tom King on 020-7928 4554 or tom.king@rsj.uk.com

**

The Big trio tasting: Monday 6th September 

A reminder that our 2010 anniversary tastings with Loire producers concludes with the much anticipated visit from Claude and Joëlle Papin (Château Pierre-Bise), Vincent and Catherine Ogereau (Domaine Ogereau) and Yves and Marie-Annick Guégniard (Domaine de la Bergerie).  

With three growers present the format will be a little different from normal. There will be a walk round tasting beforehand starting from around 6pm, so plenty of opportunity to meet our three producers and taste their wines. Then we will move upstairs for dinner around 7.45 with each grower presenting their domaines and showing two wines. Cost of the tasting and dinner will be £45.

We anticipate that this will be a great evening and that demand for places will be high. Please contact Tom King on 020-7928 4554 or tom.king@rsj.uk.com to book. 

RSJ's Christmas 2009 wine offer

The following wines are a special selection from the extensive RSJ Wine list and are offered at a discounted rate until the end of the year. We have already put together a number of ‘mixed cases’ but please feel free to mix your own cases if you prefer.

To order: Tel 020 7928 4554 e-mail tom.king@rsj.uk.com

A box for Christmas Day £ 55.00

1 bottle Crémant de Loire Brut, Domaine de Nerleux
Delicious sparkling wine made in the traditional method
from Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay.

2 bottles 2008 Touraine Sauvignon, Domaine du Clos Roussely
Stunning Sauvignon from a wonderful new discovery, Vincent Roussely.

2 bottles 2008 St Nicolas de Bourgueil ‘Les Rouillières’, Frédéric Mabileau
Lovely ripe and fruity with an excellent balance and flavour.

1 bottle Taylors First Estate Port

..

The Prestige case [6 bottles] £90.00
[A stunning collection of our vignerons top wines]

1 bottle 2005 Vouvray, ‘Clos du Portail’, Didier Champalou

1 bottle 2007 Chenin Blanc, Saumur, Frédéric Mabileau

1 bottle 2007 Bourgueil ‘ Racines’ Frédéric Mabileau

1 bottle 2007 ‘La Croix de Mission, Domaine des Rochelles, Jean-Yves Lebreton

1 bottle 2007 Chinon, Vieilles Vignes, Philippe Alliet

1 bottle 2007 Coteaux du Layon ‘Les Rouannières’ [50cl], Claude Papin

12 Bottles for the Festive Season £ 125.00

2 bottles 2008 Sancerre ‘Les Pierris’, Domaine Champault

2 bottles 2007 Château de la Roulerie, Chenin Sec, Philippe Germain

2 bottles 2007 Anjou Villages, Domaine des Rochelles, Jean-Yves Lebreton

2 bottles 2008 Chinon, Domaine de la Perrière, Baudry-Dutour

1 bottle 2007 Bourgueil ‘Racines’, Frédéric Mabileau

1 bottle Crémant de Loire Brut, Domaine de Nerleux

1 bottle 2007 Coteaux du Layon-Beaulieu, ‘Clos de la Soucherie’, Claude Papin

1 bottle Taylors LBV 2003 Port

Champagne & sparkling wine
Discount Normal
Crémant de Loire Brut, Domaine de Nerleux £9.75 £10.50

Vouvray Brut, Domaine Champalou £11.25 £12.20

Champagne J.P.Robert Brut £18.95 £20.50

Sweet Wines
The following selection of sweet wines go extremely well with blue cheese, foie gras
and various fruit desserts – why not treat yourself to a bottle or two this Christmas?

2007 Coteaux du Layon Cuvée Prestige, Domaine Ogereau [50cl] £13.85 £14.95

2007 Coteaux du Layon ‘Les Rouannières’ Château Pierre Bise, Claude Papin [50cl] £16.50 £17.85

2006 Quarts de Chaume, Château Pierre Bise, Claude Papin [50cl] £19.75 £22.50

Dry white
Price: Discount Normal
2009 Saumur Blanc, Domaine des Hauts de Sanziers £6.95 £7.70
Dominique Tessier’s lovely ripe Chenin Blanc has a good length
and is most appealing.

2007 Muscadet ‘sur lie’ Pierre de la Grange £7.25 £7.80
Pierre Luneau’s stunning Muscadets go from strength to strength
and this wine has real ripeness and excellent balance.

2008 Touraine Sauvignon, Vincent Roussely £7.50 £8.25
Organically grown from low yields, this lovely ripe Sauvignon
has much more concentration than most from this appellation.

2008 Sauvignon, Domaine de Bablut £7.90 £8.50
Christophe Daviau’s delicious organically produced Sauvignon
is ripe, elegant and has a lovely balance.

2007 Château de la Roulerie, Chenin Sec £9.95 £10.80
Now in the hands of the dynamic Philippe Germain, this famous
old Anjou property has gone through a transformation. This superbly
balanced ripe fruity wine goes well with lightly spiced and oriental food
as well as traditional fish and white meat dishes.

2007 Vouvray Sec, Domaine Champalou £9.95 £10.80
Didier Champalou’s delicious Vouvray has lovely ripe fruit
and great length. It is for wines like this that he is regarded
by many as one of the leading vignerons in this appellation.

2008 Chinon Blanc, Baudry-Dutour £10.25 £11.00
Although predominantly a region for red wines, a number of vignerons
have planted Chenin Blanc with great success, not least Christophe Baudry who has made a delicious ripe and well balanced wine.

2008 Quincy, Domaine des Ballandors £10.25 £11.00
Jean Tatin’s delicious dry zesty and beautifully balanced
Sauvignon is now drinking superbly.

2008 Sancerre ‘Les Pierris’ Domaine Champault £10.50 £11.50
This classic Sancerre from the Champault brothers has a lovely
blackcurrant nose, ripe Sauvignon flavours and is beautifully balanced.

2007 Chenin Blanc, Saumur, Frédéric Mabileau £14.95 £16.20
Frédéric’s fabulous Chenin Blanc is made from old vines vines
which gives it a wonderful concentration and complexity.
It is fermented in oak barrel and was recently awarded the Liger d’Or.

Red wine
Price: Discount Normal
2008 Saumur Rouge, Domaine des Hauts de Sanziers £6.95 £7.70
A ripe and fruity Cabernet Franc from Dominique Tessier – this
wine has an elegance and nice balance
.
2007 Anjou Rouge, Domaine Ogereau £7.80 £8.50
Easy drinking, fruity and with a nice concentration, Vincent Ogereau’s
latest vintage is fantastic value.

2008 Touraine Gamay, Domaine du Clos Roussely £7.50 £8.25
Delicious fruity Gamay from low yields grown organically
by this exciting young vigneron.

2008 Chinon, Domaine de la Perrière £8.50 £9.25
Baudry-Dutour's lovely 2008 is packed with ripe fruit
- it has a glorious nose of violets and a lovely balance.

2008 ‘Les Rouillères’ St Nicolas de Bourgueil £9.50 £10.30
Frédéric Mabileau’s delicious 2008 is rich ripe and elegant
with an excellent balance.

2008 Domaine de Nerleux, Saumur Champigny £8.75 £9.50
The highly regarded Thierry Germain has made a delicious
Champigny this year, full of ripe fruit and charm.

2007 Domaine des Rochelles Anjou Villages £9.75 £10.50
Jean-Yves Lebreton has produced a wonderful wine made from
Cabernet Franc – it has a lovely concentration concentration and length.

2007 Bourgueil ‘Racines’ £11.95 £12.95
Frédéric Mabileau is recognised by his peers as one of the finest vignerons in the Loire valley and his 2007 Bourgueil, made from old vines, has lovely ripe fruit and a very good length and concentration enhanced
by careful ageing in oak.

2008 Sancerre Rouge ‘Les Pierris’ £10.75 £11.60
Delicious Pinot Noir from the Champault brothers with good balance and drinking well.

2007 Chinon ‘ Vieilles Vignes’ Philippe Alliet £15.25 £16.50
Stunning wine from very old vines and aged in new oak .Lovely rich and concentrated. Another fabulous wine from Chinon’s greatest wine maker.