Matching Loire wines with Sticky Mango's Asian street food

Peter Lloyd

Last Monday (24th July) Peter Lloyd and Tom King held the first food and wine matching evening at Sticky Mango@RSJ. Winewise we held true to our long commitment to the Loire, while Peter's food was typically brilliant. (Jim reports*)

It proved to be a fascinating experiment seeing how well the food and wine would knock along together. 

 Irish Rock Oyster
Coconut & Lime Granita, Chilli Tapioca Pearls
2015 Muscadet de Sevre et Maine sur lie 

Le Verger Pierre Luneau-Papin

Although Muscadet is famous for being an ideal match with seafood this was the evening's least successful match. The oyster was fat, delicious with an attractive sweetness, while this particular Muscadet had good freshness but without the weight and concentration to stand up to the oyster. Another richer Muscadet from the Luneau-Papin stable or an older Muscadet with more evolved flavours would, I suspect, have been a more successful match. 

Moving away from the Loire and France it would be worth trying an Alvarinho, Vinho Verde from Anselmo Mendes. 

 Soft shelled crab

with the fried steam buns

Tempura Soft Shell Crab 

Singapore Chilli Sauce, Fried Steam Buns  2016 Pouilly Fumé, Domaine Treuillet

Sébastien Treuillet

In contrast to the Muscadet, the 2016 Pouilly Fumé from Sébastien Treuillet was a brilliant match with the delicious soft shelled crab. The Pouilly Fumé had enough weight to match the tastily spicy flavours of the crab. 

 JG's Black Pepper Shrimp

Sun-dried Pineapple, Jicama & Pea Shoots

2016 Saumur Blanc, Domaine de Nerleux

Amélie Neau  

2015 Saumur-Champigny 

Domaine de Nerleux, Amélie Neau

  

It was interesting to find that the red – Saumur-Champigny – proved to be a better match with the spicy shrimp than the Saumur Blanc, which was rather overwhelmed. However, the Saumur Blanc proved to be good with the next dish – the chicken.

 Mamak BBQ Corn Fed Chicken

Charred Long Bean, Pickled Red Onion Salad

with Jasmine Rice2015 Chinon Domaine de la Noblaie

Jérôme Billard 

 
 

I thought the 2015 Chinon was too tannic to be a good match with the chicken. Perhaps another year or two in bottle would be beneficial for this match. Perhaps a 2014 or 2012 or perhaps an earlier vintage might be a better match. 

The Sticky Mango:

Sweet Sticky Rice, Coconunt & Vanilla, 

Whipped Condensed Milk, Mango

– Peter's signature dessert 

Pandan Macaron 

Kaya Jam, Caramel & Soy Sauce Ice Cream2014 Coteaux du Layon Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay
Vincent and Emmanuel Ogereau

I was surprised that the Coteaux du Layon stood up as well as it did to The Sticky Mango, which is nowhere near as sweet as the description suggests. The Layon was, however, completely overpowered by the very sweet Macaron, which perhaps needs something like a Muscat de Rivesaltes or a Muscat from Spain or Portugal. 

Sticky Mango

33 Coin Street
London SE1 9NR
Tel: 020-7803 9733
E Mail: info@stickymango.co.uk

Latest menu here.  

* I have been a consultant to the RSJ Restaurant (now Sticky Mango@RSJ) for over 30 years. However, on this occasion I paid in full (£49) to be part of this food and wine matching evening.  

 

   

 

Our 2015 Christmas Wine Offer – plenty of Loire treats!

Ripe Cabernet Franc 

The following wines are a special selection from the extensive RSJ Wine list and are offered at a discounted rate until the end of the year. We have already put together a number of ‘mixed cases’ but please feel free to mix your own cases if you prefer. Discounted prices are shown in bold red.

To order:  Tel 020-7928 4554    e-mail tom.king@rsj.uk.com

RSJ, 33 Coin Street , London SE1 9NR

Tom King 

A Box for Christmas Day £57.00           
1 Bottle Crémant de Loire Brut, Domaine de Nerleux              

Delicious dry sparkling wine made in the traditional method. 

From 80% Chenin Blanc and 20% Chardonnay.

2 Bottles  2014 Touraine Sauvignon, ‘Le Clos’

Stunning organic Sauvignon from top young vigneron – Vincent Roussely.

2 Bottles  2014  Chinon, Domaine de la Noblaie

Lovely ripe and fruity with an excellent balance and flavour.

1 Bottle Cockburn’s Fine Ruby Port

Ripe well structured port from this famous house.

The Prestige case [6 bottles] £90.00

[A stunning collection of our vignerons top wines]

1 Bottle  2005 Le L’d’Or Muscadet, Vieilles Vignes, Pierre and Pierre-Marie Luneau                                     

1 Bottle  2013  Savennières, Clos Le Grand Beaupréau, Vincent & Emmanuel Ogereau

1 Bottle  2011 ‘Evanescence’ Anjou Villages  Yves Guégniard

1 Bottle  2014 ‘La Croix de Mission’ Anjou Villages Brissac Jean-Yves and Jean-Hubert Lebreton                                 

1 Bottle  2012 Chinon ‘Pierre de Tuf’ Jérôme Billard

1 Bottle 2011 Coteaux du Layon ‘Clos de la Soucherie’ [50cl] Claude Papin

The Sauvignon Selection  £123.00

3 Bottles  2014 Touraine Sauvignon ‘Le Clos’ Vincent Roussely

3 Bottles  2014 Sauvignon, Domaine de Bablut, Christophe Daviau

2 bottles 2014 Quincy , Domaine des Ballandors, Jean Tatin & Chantal Wilk

2 Bottles  2014 Sancerre ‘Les Pierris’ Domaine Champault

2 Bottles  2014 Pouilly Fume, Domaine Treuillet, Sébastien Treuillet

 

                        Jérôme Billard, Domaine de la Noblaie

The Chinon Selection – Domaine de la Noblaie £150.00                      

We have been fortunate to acquire from Jérôme Billard, the proprietor of the outstanding Domaine de la Noblaie, a very limited number of bottles of some older vintages and we are offering these in a mixed case as follows:

                                6 Bottles 2014 Chinon Domaine de la Noblaie

                                3 Bottle 2014  Chinon Blanc          

                                1 Bottle 2005 Chinon ‘Pierre de Tuf’

                                1 Bottle 2005 Chinon ‘Les Blancs Manteaux’

                                1 Bottle 2009 Chinon  Chiens-Chiens

Diary date: we are delighted that Jérome will be presenting his wines in the restaurant over a dinner-tasting on Wednesday 20th January 2016. Details to follow shortly.

The Plantagenet Selection – wonderful wines from the region of our former Kings   £135.00

A selection of 3 whites and 3 reds from some of the best vignerons in the Anjou region

                       

                                2 bottles 2014 Sauvignon Domaine de Bablut

                                2 bottles 2014 Chateau de la Roulerie Chenin Blanc

                                2 bottles 2013 Savennieres Clos de Coulaine

                                2 bottles 2014 Chateau de la Roulerie ‘Les Merances’

                                2 bottles 2014 ‘La Cerisaie’ Domaine de la Bergerie

                                2 bottles 2014 ‘La Croix de Mission’Domaine des Rochelles

Champagne & Sparkling Wine

Crémant de Loire Brut, Domaine de Nerleux                           £11.95        £10.95

Crémant de Loire Rose, Domaine de Nerleux                           £11.95         £10.95

Vouvray Brut, Domaine Champalou                                          £13.50         £12.75

Champagne J.P. Robert Brut                                                     £24.50           £22.50

Red Wine

2014 Saumur Rouge, Domaine des Hauts de Sanziers                £8.95        £8.30

A ripe & fruityCabernet Franc from Dominique Tessier,

this wine has an elegance and good balance

2014  La Cerisaie, Domaine de la Bergerie                                    £9.50        £8.80

Yves Guégniard’s delicious 2014 is made from predominantly

Cabernet Franc with about 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. It is ripe

 and full with an excellent balance and an attractive nose of black fruits..

2014 Saumur Champigny Domaine de Nerleux                           £9.95        £9.20

Amelié & Régis Neau have made a delicious Champigny this year, full of ripe fruit and charm.

2013 Gamay Château Pierre-Bise                                                    £9.95      £9.20

Ripe full Gamay  with plenty of concentration, Claude Papin’s latest vintage is terrific value.

2014 Chinon, Domaine de la Noblaie                                            £10.15        £9.40

Jérôme Billard’s lovely elegant Chinon has lovely ripe fruit – it has a glorious nose of violets and a lovely balance. Made organically.

2014 Anjou Villages ‘ Breton’ Domaine des Rochelles                 £11.95         £11.05

Jean-Yves Lebreton & his son Jean Hubert make terrific red wines and the 2014 is full of ripe fruit with excellent concentration and a really good length.

2014 Sancerre Rouge ‘Les Pierris’                                                   £13.25         £12.25

Delicious Pinot Noir from the Champault brothers with good balance and drinking really well.

2012 Chinon ‘Pierre de Tuf’ Domaine de la Noblaie                     £14.75          £13.75 

Jerome Billard’s top cuvée  is made from old vines first planted before the Second World War. Aged in oak for 12 months. It has a richness and concentration with a very good length.

                              

Sweet Wines

The wonderful sweet wines from the Layon are beautifully balanced and go extremely well with blue cheese, Foie Gras and various fruit desserts – why not treat yourself to a bottle or two this Christmas?

                                                                                                                       

2014 Coteaux du Layon St Lambert, Domaine Ogereau                 £13.95           £12.95

2011 Coteaux du Layon ‘Clos de la Soucherie’ Claude Papin [50cl]  £18.25       £16.85

2011 Quarts de Chaume, Domaine de la Bergerie [50cl]                £32.95             £29.95

Lovely vintage from the Loire's only Grand Cru vineyard

Dry White                                                                        

                                                                                                                                  

2014 Saumur Blanc, Domaine des Hauts de Sanziers                       £8.95             £8.30

Dominique Tessier’s excellent ripe Chenin Blanc has a good length and is most appealing.

                                                                                                                               

2014 Touraine Sauvignon, ‘Le Clos’ Vincent Roussely                     £8.95             £8.30

Organically grown from low yields, this stunning ripe Sauvignon has much more concentration than most from this appellation.

2014 Sauvignon, Domaine de Bablut  Christophe Daviau                  £9.95         £9.20

Christophe’s organically grown sauvignon is classy, elegant and beautifully balanced.

2014 Muscadet Sur Lie, ‘Le Clos des Allées                                           £11.20        £10.50

The Luneau family’s ever popular  wine from this special site is made from old vines and has a wonderful minerality with real ripeness and excellent balance.

2014 Chinon Blanc, Domaine de la Noblaie                                     £11.95           £11.05

Jérôme Billard’s organic white Chinon made from Chenin Blanc has a beautiful floral nose and a lovely minerality.

2014 Château de la Roulerie, Chenin Blanc                                     £12.25              £11.35

Philippe Germain’s lovely Chenin Blanc has a delightful floral nose and a wonderful concentration and complexity.

2014 Vouvray Sec, Domaine Champalou                                          £12.50               £11.75     

Didier Champalou’s delicious dry Vouvray has lovely ripe fruit and great length.

2014 Quincy , Domaine des Ballandors                                            £12.50                £11.75

Jean Tatin’s gold medal winning Sauvignon from this fashionable district in the Cher Valley, close to the cathedral city of Bourges, is lively, ripe and has a great elegance.

2014 Sancerre ‘Les Pierris’ Domaine Champault                           £12.95               £11.95

This classic Sancerre from the Champault brothers has a lovely blackcurrant nose, ripe Sauvignon flavours and is beautifully balanced.

2014 Pouilly Fumé, Domaine Treuillet                                                £13.25            £12.25

Classic Pouilly Fumé from impressive young grower, Sébastien Treuillet – lovely ripe flinty Sauvignon with great character.

2013 Savennières, Clos de Coulaine                                                    £13.25              £12.25

Claude Papin’s superb Savennières from this renowned vineyard has wonderful honeyed fruit and an excellent balance along with a lovely minerality.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    E&OE

                                                                                  

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             

RSJ 35th anniversary dinner: Monday 6th July 2015

The Yellow Room scene of the anniversary dinner series  

Thierry Germain, Domaine des Roches Neuves 

@25th our anniversary dinner

‘35th Anniversary Dinner’ 

 Monday 6th July 2015

Apéritif: 
Crémant de Loire, Domaine de Nerleux
Amélie & Régis Neau 

White wine: 
2014 Pouilly Fumé
Sébastien Treuillet

1999 Saumur Blanc L’Insolite
Thierry Germain 

Cornish Crab, globe artichoke, crab bisque 

Red wine: 

1989 Bourgueil ‘Les Galichets’
Pierre Breton

1990  Chinon Domaine René Couly
Couly Dutheil 

Rump of lamb with crushed Jersey royals, peas, 

broad beans, lamb jus 

Sweet wine: 

1989 Vouvray Moelleux ‘Grande Année’
Bernard Fouquet 

Cashel blue cheese

Lemon & Raspberry crème brulée, passion fruit sorbet

Tom King 

Tom King's notes on some of the wines  

The 1999 Insolite was very good and the excessive oak present early on in its life has with time integrated well.  
The 1990 Chinon [magnum] from Couly on first opening looked to be on its last legs but it blossomed as the evening wore on and seemed to take on more substance. 
1989 Galichets [magnum] was excellent - still holding up really well and surprised us how good it was. 
1989 Fouquet Moelleux - plenty of life still ahead and drinking very well.

RSJ 35th anniversary celebration dinner on 30th March 2015

RSJ Restaurant 

 Nigel Wilkinson

Tom King reports:

We had a very good evening last night with upstairs full of many loyal RSJ customers. 

I attach the menu and wines.

The 2008 Anjou Villages from Vincent Ogereau surprised Nigel and I about how well it was showing. I pulled the corks in the morning and the additional breathing time had certainly done it a favour as it was lovely and rounded with a really nice concentration.

The 1986 Clos de L'Echo was from magnums and was very good - lovely mature Chinon with life still ahead.

 •••

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‘35th Anniversary Dinner’ 

 Monday 30th March 2015

Aperitif:

Crémant de Loire, Domaine de Nerleux

Amélie & Régis Neau

White:

2013 Sancerre ‘Les Pierris’

Roger Champault et Fils

2012 Savennières Clos de Coulaine

Claude Papin

Hot smoked salmon, asparagus,

hollandaise sauce

Red:

2008 Anjou Villages, Domaine Ogereau

Vincent Ogereau

1986 Chinon Clos de L’Echo

Couly Dutheil

Lamb shank with butterbeans,

curly kale, lamb jus

Sweet:

2011 Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu, ‘ Clos de la Soucherie’

Claude Papin

  

Plum & Apricot tart

Mascarpone & vanilla cream

Nigel flanked by Philippe and Thierry Germain: 25th anniversary celebration 

  

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RSJ [pre-budget] Wine Offer

March 2013

We have put together a selection of wines ideal for current drinking this spring. The chancellor delivers his 2013 budget on March 20th and this may well increase duty on alcohol – it invariably does!

(Please feel free to mix cases)

                                                                                     List                             Offer

                                                                                     Price                           Price

WHITE

2011 Saumur Blanc, Dom des Hauts de Sanziers  £8.75                         £7.95

Award winning ripe fruity well balanced Chenin Blanc

with nice weight and structure

2011 Touraine Sauvignon ‘Le Clos’                       £8.75                          £7.95

Very attractive ripe Sauvignon from Vincent Roussely

in Touraine. Made organically.

2011 Château de la Roulerie, Chenin Sec            £11.50                         £10.65

Stunning dry and beautifully balanced Chenin

from Philippe Germain in Anjou .

Goes very well with oriental food.

2011 Quincy , Domaine des Ballandors                  £12.75                         £11.85

Gold medal winning Sauvignon from this appellation

near Sancerre made by the hugely talented Jean Tatin.

It is beautifully balanced and most appealing.

2011 Pouilly Fumé, DomaineTreuillet                    £12.95                         £11.95

This classic Pouilly  from Sébastien Treuillet

has a lovely blackcurrant nose, elegance

and wonderful balance and minerality.

2010 Savennières Clos de Coulaine                          £12.95                        £11.95

Claude Papin has made a delightful floral, honeyed

dry Chenin full of fruit with a  lovely minerality.

It has a really good length and balance.

SPARKLING

Crémant de Loire, Domaine de Nerleux               £11.50                         £10.50

Regis Neau’s  ever popular, delicious dry sparkler

is made from 70%Chenin Blanc & 30% Chardonnay

and makes a wonderful aperitif!

RED

2011 Saumur Rouge Dom des Hauts de Sanziers  £8.75                        £7.95

Dominique Tessier’s gold medal winning Saumur has

Lovely mouthwatering fruit with good wight and a fresh finish.

2011 Chinon Domaine de la Noblaie                      £10.25                         £9.35

Outstanding organically grown Chinon from top young

vigneron, Jérôme Billard, it is packed with ripe fruit.

It has an attractive nose of violets and alovely balance.

2010 Anjou Gamay ‘Sur Spilite’  Ch. Pierre-Bise               £11.95             £10.95

Claude Papin’s Gamay has a big structure with intense

fruit and a long finish. No Lightweight!

2011 Sancerre Rouge ‘Les Pierris’                            £12.95                         £11.95

Made from 100% Pinot Noir, this is an elegant

attractive and stylish wine from the Champault brothers.

2010 St Nicolas-de-Bourgueil  ‘Les Coutures’        £15.25                         £13.95

Frédéric Mabileau’s superb St Nicolas has had a great following

for a number of years. Made from 40 year old vines,

it is aged in oak for 9 months. This wine is made organically.

E &OE

RSJ  33 Coin Street, London SE1 9NR   

Tel: 020 7928 4554    E-mail: tom.king@rsj.uk.com

Tom King@work in the Loire

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