Spring at the RSJ Restaurant

We have put together the following programme of wine tastings and Italian Sunday lunches for the early part of 2010.

Wine Tastings with Dinner (3 courses) start 7.15pm
Tuesday 9th March    ‘Christophe Daviau , Domaine de Bablut’ £45.00

Christophe is one of the leading growers in Anjou. The Daviau family have been involved in wine in Brissac-Quince since 1546. Christophe, who worked in Australia for 18 months before  returning to Bablut, has been making wine organically for a number of years and has now embraced biodynamics.

He makes a really elegant Sauvignon as well as lovely reds from Cabernet Franc, dry whites from Chenin Blanc and delicious sweet wines, Coteaux de l’Aubance. He speaks good English (with a few Australian expressions!)  and this promises to be a really enjoyable evening.

Club discount applies to wine events. Don’t forget to mention your club discount when eating in the restaurant!

For reservations please contact: tom.king@rsj.uk.com  tel: 020 7928 4554
RSJ Restaurant  33 Coin Street  London  SE1 9NR

Italian Sunday Lunches at RSJ
Our Spring schedule of lunches with the passionate Italian cook, prolific food writer and personality, Ursula Ferrigno continues with the following dates at the RSJ Restaurant.

Starting at 1.00pm these events will include a glass of wine on arrival.                                                                 

Sunday 21st March  ‘Lombardy’       £30.00

Lombardy is the richest of all the regions of Italy. It accounts for a third of all Italian exports but not dominated by industrial sites – not a ‘smoky Italian monster’ (Ursula).

The basin of the River Po is an immense flat plain with green fields alternating with wheat, maize and rice. The food of this region is as fascinating as the landscape – rich cheeses and butter as well as mushrooms and truffles. Ursula’s menu this month reflects this diversity.

Minestrone alla Milanese     -  There are so many versions of this heart warming winter soup – rich with vegetables and a classical broth.Risotto alla Milanese –  This fabulous risotto was shown to Ursula by renowned chef Fulvio de Santa from the famous restaurant Peck in Milan.
Finocchi Gratinati -  Baked fennel, slowly cooked with a subtle flavour.
Polpetti di Funghi -  Mushroom and green bean soufflé.
Pane di Olivio- Olive bread with thyme.
Bonet -  Rum and chocolate custard flavoured with coffee and bitter chocolate and amaretti – light and luxurious!           
Formaggio- Cheese from Lombardy.

Sunday 25th April       ‘The magic island of Sardinia’                    £30.00
A Sardinian culinary experience –  full details to be posted on the website in due course

We have a few places – strictly limited –  for anyone who wishes to assist Ursula during the morning, making bread, pasta soup and sauces associated with these lunches.*

This cookery tuition will cost each person an additional £30.00.

For reservations please contact: tom.king@rsj.uk.com  tel: 020 7928 4554
RSJ Restaurant  33 Coin Street  London  SE1 9NR

Cellar raid: tasting and dinner@RSJ 18.1.2010

19.1.2010
Last night we had a very successful first event of 2010 at the RSJ – a tasting and dinner featuring wines from the cellar of propietor, Nigel Wilkinson. The only Sauvignon was the aperitif – 2008 Sauvignon Blanc from Vincent Roussely's Clos Roussely – all the other whites being Chenin Blanc. Again Vincent's Sauvignon showed why it has proved so popular over the past year with its combination of ripe fruit – grassy with a hint of gooseberry – and freshness.


The whites 

The Champalou 1999 sec was on fine form with the typically softer Champalou style compared to the more mineral and austere style from Domaine Huet and Bernard Fouquet (Domaine des Aubuisières). Still youthful after ten years with good texture and a backbone of acidity partly hidden by a touch of sweetness. 

 

There was considerable bottle variation between the two bottles served – one was quite oxidised while the other one much fresher. Presumably down to differences between the corks. Clos de Varennes came from Pierre Soulez's Château de Chamboreau and was sold by Bernard Germain of Château de Fesles. It was certainly vinified in wood with a fair proportion of new wood. I'm sure that this overseen by Bernard's team but I need to recheck. The more oxidised bottle was cheesy, yeasty and oily, while the second was much fresher. We decanted both bottles and both were improved by this aeration.

Domaine Richou: 1990 Chauvigné, Anjou Blanc

The last time we tried an aged bottle of Domaine Richou's Anjou Blanc sec it was a rare bottle of the serious frost affected 1991. Sadly it was completely oxidised and undrinkable. Fortunately the 1990 was still in good shape – clean, fresh with good length and dominated by truffle aromas. A reminder that rearing truffles (if that is the correct word) is becoming increasingly popular in the Loire, especially in Touraine.

Served with roast scallops with wild mushroom risotto

Tasted alone the 1999 Vouvray was the very clear favourite with the Anjou Blanc and the Savennières well out of the running. However, with the scallops the Anjou Blanc came into its own and was equal favourite with the Vouvray.

The Reds

 

We had intended to serve Pierre Breton's 1990 Bourgueil with the main course with the 2002 Anjou Villages from Domaine des Rochelles as the interlude red. However, tasting it beforehand we felt that Pierre's wine was too delicate to stand up to the beef, so we swopped the two wines around.

This 1990 Bourgueil comes from gravel vineyards and has the charm of aged Loire Cabernet Franc. Much more in style of an evolved, delicate Burgundy than a more robust and powerful Bordeaux. Small wonder that a number of the top Loire vignerons look at Burgundy for kinship. Bricky and fairly light in colour Pierre's wine has attractive savoury fruit and more weight than you would initially imagine.

2002 Anjou-Villages JYA Lebreton (Domaine des Rochelles)

The domaine Anjou-Villages is always either 100% Cabernet Franc or in the vast majority with just a little Cabernet Sauvignon, while La Croix de la Mission is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon or virtually so. 2002 is one of those vintages when a good autumn saved the day after a poor summer with the sun coming and staying out and the wind round to the east. Fortunately this tends to happen fairly frequently – 2007 and 2008 being further examples of this trend.

2002 reds are not heavyweights but like other wines from this vintage they have a magic balance. This has an attractive blend of red and black fruits and is certainly ready to drink now, although it could be kept another two or three years. 

 

1996 Saumur-Champigny, Château de Villeneuve

1996 is one of my favourite red wine vintages in the Loire – classic in style and aging very well as the occasional bottle of Villeneuve's 1996 Grand Clos demonstrates so enjoyably. It is some time since I have tasted the straight 1996. Naturally it doesn't have the full concentration, power and structure of Le Grand Clos but it does have attractive black fruit, medium structure and is still youthful for a nearly 14 year old wine.  

1989 Clos de la Grille, Chinon, Mme Yves Sourdais

This domaine is just to the east of the town of Chinon not far from Philippe Alliet's Coteaux du Noire but lower and slightly to the west.

 

To be continued – but may be a while with several tastings on today: Liberty Wines and French Independent Wine Growers. In 1989 the Clos was owned by Mme Yves Sourdais. However, I visited the domaine sometime in the later half of the 1990s (I think) it was owned and run, as it is now, by Marie Raffault. 1989 was a hot and dry vintage – among the best of the 20th century. Mid-weight, this has the soft, ripe fruit more typical of a vineyard further south that is characteristic of 1989, which you see again but even more so in the 2003 heatwave vintage.

Served with medallions of beef, fondant potatoes, carrots, French beans and red wine jus.

Of the three reds that accompanied the particularly delicious beef the Clos de la Grille was the very clear favourite both with and without food. I was quite surprised by this strong preference as I thought that both the 2002 Anjou-Villages and the 1996 Saumur-Champigny had strong points.

We finished with two stunning wines from Domaine Huet:

2002 Le Mont Moelleux, Vouvray 

2002 Clos du Bourg Moelleux, Vouvray

Both have that wonderful balance of the 2002s, which the 2008s also show. Le Mont is all precision, mineral and austere, while Le Bourg is a little richer, a touch honeyed but still with marvellous precision and minerality. Two wines that have a very long life ahead of them.  

They were served before the dessert – walnut tart, poached pear and coffee ice cream. There was one claim that they worked with the dessert but I think they are better, as both are moderately sweet rather than super sweet, drunk with cheese, patés, perhaps even Pekin duck. With hindsight it would have been interesting to serve Le Mont with the roast scallops.

Saint Valentine's Day Sunday lunch: 14th February 2010

As Saint Valentine's Day falls on a Sunday this year, the RSJ will be open for lunch on Sunday 14th February from midday with last orders at 6pm. While there won't be a special menu, there will some special dishes for this day.

Bookings on 020-7928 4554.

Christophe Daviau, Domaine de Bablut – changed from 8th to 9th March

Due to opera-rational reasons the tasting - dinner with Christophe Daviau, Domaine de Bablut has been changed from Monday 8th to Tuesday 9th March.

Christophe is one of the leading growers in Anjou. He is an acknowledged authority on sweet wines – a walk in the vineyard with Christophe at harvest time is fascinating as he explains the various stages of noble rot. The Daviau family has been involved in wine in Brissac-Quincé since 1546. Under Christophe the Bablut estate has embraced biodynamics.

Details of this special evening will be sent out as soon as possible.

Cellar raid tasting dinner: Monday 18th January

Aperitif

2008 Touraine Sauvignon, Vincent Roussely

Whites:
1999 Vouvray Sec, Catherine and Didier Champalou

1996 Savennières, Clos de Varennes, Bernard Germain

1990 Anjou Blanc Sec, Domaine Richou

Reds:
1989 Chinon, Clos de la Grille, Domaine Marie Riffault

1990 Bourgueil, Pierre Breton

2002 Anjou Villages, Domaine des Rochelles (Cabernet Franc), Jean-Yves and Anita Lebreton

1996 Saumur Champigny, Château de Villeneuve

To be followed by:
2002 Vouvray Le Mont, Domaine Huet
2002 Vouvray Clos du Bourg, Domaine Huet

Menu:
Roast Scallops with wild mushroom risotto

Medallions of beef, fondant potatoes, carrots, French beans, red wine jus

The dinner will conclude with either a dessert or cheese – a decision yet to be made as the Vouvray is likely to be a better match with the cheese than a dessert.

Please note that if numbers are much reduced by the weather, there may be changes to the wines and menu.However, we are hoping that the icy grip will have been loosened by Monday.

Party menus: January 2010

Here are our current menus for groups of 10 and over.

Menu A £20.95 3 courses with coffee

Menu B £32.95 3 courses with coffee

plus an optional 12.5% service charge

Please choose one of the menus for your party. The menu you have chosen will be presented to your guests, they can decide on the day which starter, main course and dessert they would like.

In addition we will have several vegetarian options if required. Please ring or arrange a time to discuss this or any other requirements or amendments should you need to do so. It is difficult to see anyone between the hours of 12.30pm and 2.30pm.

Confirmation of your booking & the menu required should be made in writing to the above address, by fax on 020 7928 9768 or by email to tom.king@rsj.uk.com

Should the numbers of your group change, please notify the restaurant as soon as possible, otherwise a cancellation fee will be charged at £10 per person.

If you have booked one of the private rooms the charge for failing to notify us of a fall in your numbers is £15 per head. To secure your private room booking we will require credit card details or a deposit.

The hire room rates are:

12 + people: no charge
10/11 £35
8/9 £50
less than 8 £75
less than 6 £100

N.B The menus are subject to change, so please check at the time of confirmation that the menus you have been sent are current.

Menu A: £20.95

Button mushroom soup

Homemade gnocchi, roast cauliflower, blue cheese sauce cherry tomatoes and rocket

Terrine of organic chicken, date and pistachio, homemade chutney

••

Roast salmon fillet, root vegetable gratin, french beans, pepperonata

Roast pork fillet & Toulouse sausage, braised red cabbage, mashed potatoes, broccoli, mustard velouté

Confit shoulder of lamb, casserole of winter vegetables and white beans, stuffed field mushroom

••

Choice of desserts from the à la carte menu (see below)

••

Coffee and mints

All Prices include VAT plus a 12.5% Service will be added

Please note that these menus are subject to last minute changes.

Menu B £32.95

Sea bass and scallops poached in light lobster bisque with steamed carrots and leeks

Warm salad of marinated Denham Estate rabbit, endive, onion marmalade, anchovies

Goat’s cheese and red onion tartlet, cucumber, rocket, mustard dressing

••

Roast halibut, Dutch finger carrots, Jerusalem artichokes, leeks, Parmesan and lemon dressing

Roast loin of venison, Brussel sprouts, parsnip purée, fondant potato, juniper berry jus

Grilled British rib-eye, French beans, chestnut mushrooms, dauphinoise, red wine jus

••

Choice of desserts from the à la carte menu (see below)

••

Coffee and mints

All prices include VAT plus a 12.5% Service will be added

Please note that these menus are subject to last minute changes.

Desserts all £5.75
Steamed cloutie dumpling, butterscotch sauce, vanilla ice cream
Chocolate and hazelnut tart, raspberry sorbet
Liquorice panna cotta, poached pear, aniseed shortbread
Fresh lemon curd cake, plum compote
Iced white chocolate and cranberry parfait, orange sauce

All prices include VAT plus 12.5% Service will be added

Please note that these menus are subject to last minute changes.

Vegetarian Options:

Button mushroom soup

Homemade gnocchi, roast cauliflower, blue cheese sauce cherry tomatoes and rocket

Parmagiana, new potatoes, french beans, pesto

Homemade linguine, roasted peppers & tomato sauce, rocket, shaved Parmesan

Casserole of winter vegetables and white beans stuffed field mushrooms

All prices include VAT plus an optional 12.5% Service will be added

Please note that these menus are subject to last minute changes.

2010: New menus

Selection of Spanish meats, Manchego cheese, olives £7.95 /£11.95

Homemade linguine, smoked salmon, crème fraîche, rocket £7.95 /£11.95

Sea bass and scallops poached in light lobster bisque with steamed carrots and leeks £9.50 /£17.95

Goat’s cheese and red onion tartlet, cucumber, rocket mustard dressing £6.95 /£12.95

Warm salad of marinated Denham Estate rabbit, endive, onion marmalade, anchovies £7.95 /£14.95

Roast halibut, Dutch finger carrots, Jerusalem artichokes, leeks, Parmesan and lemon dressing £18.95

Dish of the day P.O.A

Seared Dutch calves liver, french beans, crispy bacon, mash potatoes, onion gravy £15.95

Roast loin of venison, Brussel sprouts, parsnip purée, fondant potato, juniper berry jus £19.75

Grilled British rib eye, French beans, chestnut mushrooms, dauphinoise, red wine jus £18.95

Parmagiana, new potatoes, french beans, pesto £10.95

Fixed Price Menu

2 courses £15.95

3 courses £18.95

Button mushroom soup

Homemade gnocchi, roast cauliflower, blue cheese sauce cherry tomatoes and rocket

Terrine of organic chicken, date and pistachio, homemade chutney

•

Roast salmon fillet, root vegetable gratin, french beans, pepperonata

Roast pork fillet & Toulouse sausage, braised red cabbage, mashed potatoes, broccoli, mustard velouté

Confit shoulder of lamb, casserole of winter vegetables and white beans, stuffed field mushroom

•

Choice of desserts from the à la carte menu

••

Side Orders £2.95
French beans
Broccoli
New season potatoes
Mash potatoes
House mixed salad / green salad
Chips

Desserts all £5.75
Steamed cloutie dumpling, butterscotch sauce, vanilla ice cream
Chocolate and hazelnut tart, raspberry sorbet
Liquorice panna cotta, poached pear, aniseed shortbread
Fresh lemon curd cake, plum compote
Iced white chocolate and cranberry parfait, orange sauce
Homemade ices and sorbets
Selection of cheeses served with quince paste and pressed fig and almond cake £6.75

Coffee
Filter £2.00
Cappuccino / decaff £2.20
Espresso / decaff £2.00
Double espresso £2.95