Christophe and Lindsay Oram assessing the reds
Last night Christophe Daviau of Domaine de Bablut in Brissac-Quince opened the RSJ Restaurant's 30th anniversary celebrations with a tasting dinner attended by around 40 people.
The apertif was the 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, a Vin de Pays Val du Loire. Not yet bottled it was the first opportunity to most present to taste a 2009 from the Loire. It is softly fruited with some of the richness that will become associated with the 2009 vintage. Due to be bottled at the end of this month.
Then three Anjou whites from Chenin Blanc:
2008 Petit Princé, Anjou Blanc
2005 Ordovicien, Anjou Blanc
1989 Anjou Blanc (from the same vineyards as Ordovicien)
2005 Ordovicien, Anjou Blanc
1989 Anjou Blanc (from the same vineyards as Ordovicien)
Petit Princé comes from the Haute-Perche where it is flatter and there is more clay. It is vinified in stainless steel. The 2008 has the wonderful, fresh fruit precision that is typical of this vintage. Ordovicien comes from vines planted on a slope on sandstone and slate. This is vinified in barrique and is a richer style of wine – in part because it is 2005 (a rich vintage) but also because the wines from this vineyarid is richer due to its soil and geology. Christophe says that the acidity level in both wine is roughly the same with the 2008 slightly higher. However, when tasting the two side by side, you certainly have the impression that the 2008 has considerably more acidity. It is the 2005 richness that masks it.
The golden coloured 1989 was very interesting as initially it had quite a maderised nose but with time in the glass this dissipated leaving a full bodied, powerful and complex wine.
These wines were served with the first course:
Poached organic salmon and leek tartlet, cuncumber and rocket salad, salmon caviar beurre blanc
The 2008 Petit Princé was clearly the preferred wine without food, while the 2005 Ordovicien became the most popular by a small margin from the Petit Princé with the salmon tartlet.
The reds:
2007 Petra Alba, Anjou Villages Brissac
100% Cabernet Franc from vines on clay and limestone
2005 Petra Alba, Anjou Villages Brissac
2005 Rocca Nigra, Anjou Villages Brissac
100% Cabernet Sauvignon from vines on schist
Christophe explained thr logic behind planting the Cabernet Franc on limestone and the Cabernet Sauvignon on imprevious rocks – schist, slate and sandstone. Franc needs regular water, which the sponge like nature of the limestone, can provide. It suffers in very dry years like 2005 when the region had been dry through 2003 and 2004. In contrast Cabernet Sauvignon likes dry conditions and reacts badly to wet soils, so is well suited to the imprevious rocky soils that do not retain water. The CS was much more at the ease in the drought conditions of 2005 than the Franc.
Served with:
The golden coloured 1989 was very interesting as initially it had quite a maderised nose but with time in the glass this dissipated leaving a full bodied, powerful and complex wine.
These wines were served with the first course:
Poached organic salmon and leek tartlet, cuncumber and rocket salad, salmon caviar beurre blanc
The 2008 Petit Princé was clearly the preferred wine without food, while the 2005 Ordovicien became the most popular by a small margin from the Petit Princé with the salmon tartlet.
The reds:
2007 Petra Alba, Anjou Villages Brissac
100% Cabernet Franc from vines on clay and limestone
2005 Petra Alba, Anjou Villages Brissac
2005 Rocca Nigra, Anjou Villages Brissac
100% Cabernet Sauvignon from vines on schist
Christophe explained thr logic behind planting the Cabernet Franc on limestone and the Cabernet Sauvignon on imprevious rocks – schist, slate and sandstone. Franc needs regular water, which the sponge like nature of the limestone, can provide. It suffers in very dry years like 2005 when the region had been dry through 2003 and 2004. In contrast Cabernet Sauvignon likes dry conditions and reacts badly to wet soils, so is well suited to the imprevious rocky soils that do not retain water. The CS was much more at the ease in the drought conditions of 2005 than the Franc.
Served with:
Roast saddle of English lamb, carrots, broccoli, roast new potatoes, lamb jus
With the delicious lamb I thought the 2005 Petra Alba was probably the best match as the 2005 Rocca Nigra was impressive but tended to dominate.
The sweets:
Christophe is an acknowledged expert on sweet wines and the stages that Chenin Balnc goes through as botrytis takes a hold. These two wines from 2005 are fine examples of Christophe's skill.
2005 Aubance Selection Coteaux de l'Aubance
2005 Grandpierre Coteaux de l'Aubance
The Selection is the entry level cuvée picked with a lower level of botrytis and so less sweet. This style is more versatile than some of the very rich styles from the L'Aubance or the Layon. It works well as an aperitif or a range of dishes such as rich chicken and pork recipes, patés and blue cheese. Grandpierre is very often my favourite sweet wine from Christophe – he also makes a Vin Noble in very good vintages. Grandpierre has a lovely balance of richness and minerality.
Served with:
Beenleigh Blue
*
Caramelised apple and hazelnut pudding
